22/04 – 22/05
Actual
Well that was an experience, didn’t get to the Western Sahara, poor weather and local experienced advice solo on the pistes put me off. Just as well because the water pump failed when I should have been in that area, very lucky indeed! However I did some great pistes and saw some new beautiful parts of Morocco, so a great trip in spite of the breakdown. 3,780 mls
SPOT LINK; http://www.findmespot.com/spotadventures/index.php/view_adventure?tripid=329625
http://www.ff4x4.fr/ff4x4/la-ff4x4/4x4-regions/grand-sud-ouest/region-aquitaine/balade-en-4x4-dans-les-landes/ An excellent French 4x4 site!
Well that was an experience, didn’t get to the Western Sahara, poor weather and local experienced advice solo on the pistes put me off. Just as well because the water pump failed when I should have been in that area, very lucky indeed! However I did some great pistes and saw some new beautiful parts of Morocco, so a great trip in spite of the breakdown. 3,780 mls
SPOT LINK; http://www.findmespot.com/spotadventures/index.php/view_adventure?tripid=329625
http://www.ff4x4.fr/ff4x4/la-ff4x4/4x4-regions/grand-sud-ouest/region-aquitaine/balade-en-4x4-dans-les-landes/ An excellent French 4x4 site!
Tues the 22nd; No dramas, packed the 110 and made the ferry port of Portsmouth in plenty of time, then got searched by customs who weren’t too happy about me carrying a knife, the fact it was locked away inside a storage drawer inside the Landy didn’t matter, but they let me off.
Boarded the ferry, which sailed on time, a lovely meal, a glass of vino and a great book to read (The impossible takes a little longer – Eric Edis) on this 24hr crossing.
Weds the 23rd; Didn’t sleep a lot, not helped by being awaken at 01:30 having my toes tickled, some bloke thought I was his mate, oh well, I‘ve done daft things as well. Read a book, had breakfast, read a bit more, wandered around on deck, slept a bit, read a bit etc etc. There’s only so much do on a 24hr ferry trip, eventually finished the book, had a late lunch and sat facing the bow of the ship ready to spot the Spanish coast.
Docked on time at 18:15, and headed south, no problems, pulled up when tired, slept a bit and then carried on. And so on most of the night.
Thurs 24th; Made good time down, wanted to make Tarifa and enter Morocco fresh on Friday. A great trip down, and pulled into Camping Rio Jara at about 13:00, pitched tent and relaxed, so glad to be sat without moving.
An excellent trip of over 600mls from 18:15 to 13:00hrs, taking it easy, with sleep stops etc. Could of pushed for Morocco and Chefchaouen, but any hold up would of made it a really long day.
Boarded the ferry, which sailed on time, a lovely meal, a glass of vino and a great book to read (The impossible takes a little longer – Eric Edis) on this 24hr crossing.
Weds the 23rd; Didn’t sleep a lot, not helped by being awaken at 01:30 having my toes tickled, some bloke thought I was his mate, oh well, I‘ve done daft things as well. Read a book, had breakfast, read a bit more, wandered around on deck, slept a bit, read a bit etc etc. There’s only so much do on a 24hr ferry trip, eventually finished the book, had a late lunch and sat facing the bow of the ship ready to spot the Spanish coast.
Docked on time at 18:15, and headed south, no problems, pulled up when tired, slept a bit and then carried on. And so on most of the night.
Thurs 24th; Made good time down, wanted to make Tarifa and enter Morocco fresh on Friday. A great trip down, and pulled into Camping Rio Jara at about 13:00, pitched tent and relaxed, so glad to be sat without moving.
An excellent trip of over 600mls from 18:15 to 13:00hrs, taking it easy, with sleep stops etc. Could of pushed for Morocco and Chefchaouen, but any hold up would of made it a really long day.
Fri 25th; Got my tickets from Carlos and one of this lovely daughters, €180 open return, more than usual, but hey ho. Arrived in time for the 11:00 ferry, boarded, docked and through customs all very easily on a gloriously sunny day.
Straight drive to Chefchaouen but via a dirt track, a nice little detour, then the track started, and a rutted one at that, bounced and rocked my way along for a few kms and thought if I don’t break anything I’ll be happy. Somebody once said “adventure doesn’t start until something goes wrong”, personally I’d rather things not go wrong and still have an adventure! So I carried on and on, climbing up and up, driving rut to rut up a single dirt track, then rounded one corner and stopped by 2 bulldozers and a JCB, the track was actually being made wider, repaired and graded.
So I got out and had a look, told to stay where I was and some bloke came over and I thought oh well turn around and back down again the 15kms I’d just came up.
But no, told to wait, after 20mins they’d cleared and graded the track just for me, and then told to carry on, not once but again in another 2kms! Fantastic! I can’t imagine the UK highways agency doing that. A good hour later pulled into Chefchaouen campsite. Really pleased I’d done the track, because it has stunning views and I drove through some pretty rustic villages. What a day!
Straight drive to Chefchaouen but via a dirt track, a nice little detour, then the track started, and a rutted one at that, bounced and rocked my way along for a few kms and thought if I don’t break anything I’ll be happy. Somebody once said “adventure doesn’t start until something goes wrong”, personally I’d rather things not go wrong and still have an adventure! So I carried on and on, climbing up and up, driving rut to rut up a single dirt track, then rounded one corner and stopped by 2 bulldozers and a JCB, the track was actually being made wider, repaired and graded.
So I got out and had a look, told to stay where I was and some bloke came over and I thought oh well turn around and back down again the 15kms I’d just came up.
But no, told to wait, after 20mins they’d cleared and graded the track just for me, and then told to carry on, not once but again in another 2kms! Fantastic! I can’t imagine the UK highways agency doing that. A good hour later pulled into Chefchaouen campsite. Really pleased I’d done the track, because it has stunning views and I drove through some pretty rustic villages. What a day!
Sat 26th; Easy day’s drive to Azrou and Euro camping, stopping en-route for lunch, and some stores.
A really lovely drive today, through Ouezzane, around Fez which has some stunningly picturesque spring-like fields all around, fields full of beautiful flowers intermingled with loads of poppies.
Around Fez after a stop, then gave Grunt a good jet wash and onto the pretty ski-like resort that is Ifrane, I really do like Ifrane, loads of lakes, tracks etc in this area, but no time to stop onward to the campsite, got there at about 14:00, pitched, showered and relaxed in the hot afternoon sunshine.
NOTE: Morocco has for a long time stayed on GMT, but now it’s moved it’s clocks forward with the UK, it’s now on UK time and will move the clocks back when the UK does.
A really lovely drive today, through Ouezzane, around Fez which has some stunningly picturesque spring-like fields all around, fields full of beautiful flowers intermingled with loads of poppies.
Around Fez after a stop, then gave Grunt a good jet wash and onto the pretty ski-like resort that is Ifrane, I really do like Ifrane, loads of lakes, tracks etc in this area, but no time to stop onward to the campsite, got there at about 14:00, pitched, showered and relaxed in the hot afternoon sunshine.
NOTE: Morocco has for a long time stayed on GMT, but now it’s moved it’s clocks forward with the UK, it’s now on UK time and will move the clocks back when the UK does.
Sun 27th;
Left just after 08:00 for Merzouga and Camping Sahara, a longish drive, but a lovely one, through the cedar forests and apes, through the bustling towns of Midelt and Er Rachidia, along the beautiful valley of Ziz where I stopped for lunch, onto Erfoud and Rissani. And finally towards Merzouga, arrived at Camping Sahara at about 14:30 in the high 30’sC, a great welcome and some excellent mint tea.
Showered, changed, swam and sat in the shade before lighting the Bushpig Braai and having an excellent spilt chicken even if I do say myself.
A hot evening but just enjoying the rest, also here tomorrow the 29th just resting.
Left just after 08:00 for Merzouga and Camping Sahara, a longish drive, but a lovely one, through the cedar forests and apes, through the bustling towns of Midelt and Er Rachidia, along the beautiful valley of Ziz where I stopped for lunch, onto Erfoud and Rissani. And finally towards Merzouga, arrived at Camping Sahara at about 14:30 in the high 30’sC, a great welcome and some excellent mint tea.
Showered, changed, swam and sat in the shade before lighting the Bushpig Braai and having an excellent spilt chicken even if I do say myself.
A hot evening but just enjoying the rest, also here tomorrow the 29th just resting.
Mon 28th; Staying at Camping Sahara just relaxing. Internet is really slow, but will try and post some pics.
NOTE: Gandini routes in the Western Sahara; 2 learned Moroccans so far, 1 an elderly gentleman who did some support work for the Paris-Dakar yrs ago and Mohammed at Camping Sahara have said the same thing, as does Gandini in his book he states “that routes are not advisable in a single vehicle”. Which is a shame, if I get that far I hoped to try some, the pistes are very different to Chris Scott’s book Morocco overland, some of the Gandini routes aren’t tracks as such, you may have to weave your way around the problem to get back on the correct GPS bearing and here lies the problem/s.
1. Rogue mines still being hit by vehicles.
2. No GSM network.
3. Very few people in the area, the odd nomad or Army Patrol.
And even the FCO website states that “strongly advise against all off-road travel in the WS”
NOTE: Gandini routes in the Western Sahara; 2 learned Moroccans so far, 1 an elderly gentleman who did some support work for the Paris-Dakar yrs ago and Mohammed at Camping Sahara have said the same thing, as does Gandini in his book he states “that routes are not advisable in a single vehicle”. Which is a shame, if I get that far I hoped to try some, the pistes are very different to Chris Scott’s book Morocco overland, some of the Gandini routes aren’t tracks as such, you may have to weave your way around the problem to get back on the correct GPS bearing and here lies the problem/s.
1. Rogue mines still being hit by vehicles.
2. No GSM network.
3. Very few people in the area, the odd nomad or Army Patrol.
And even the FCO website states that “strongly advise against all off-road travel in the WS”
Tues 29th;
Up early and
eager to move on, hopefully taking the MS6 route Merzouga-Zagora, refuelled, and
set off. Made good time to the piste, heard about the dunes and feche-feche and
while I initially started on the route, I spotted a track heading north-west,
so I ask a local and he said no problem, no dunes and only a little
feche-feche, travelling on piste alone makes me take not as many risks.
So off I set, I could see the track on OLAF’s maps heading North on Ramila before back onto the MS6 again, good. Some 3hrs later still bouncing along, some good track, some bad track, some sand, some feche-feche which was all nice but tiring, went through some outpost of a few shacks where some entrepreneur said he’ll show a quicker way to the dry river bed little feche-feche, after a bit of haggling agreed, another 30mins finally got to the Oued Rheris and sure enough he did show me a shorter easier route across which I was thankfully for.
Followed the track back down the river to MS6 and turned to Zagora, a few kms later passed by about 10 KTM’s bombing along, swapped waves and horn noises a couple pulling wheelies etc and then from nowhere a sand storm appeared, couldn’t see a blooming thing, very glad not to be wild camping.
The nearest village, Tafraoute was still about 12kms away, which took about an hour, absolute nightmare, sand storm cleared and made way for a dust storm, pulled into the Auberge Lac Maider about 6hrs after setting off from Merzouga, absolutely shattered, near 40C, blowing a gale with dust from the dried lake and it lasted till about 18:00, well the dust disappeared which left just the wind.
I just sat inside this friendly little place just drinking cold drinks, absolutely drained.
Initially there was a Portuguese party of about 8 vehicles on a Maroc raid who were doing the MS6 to Merzouga in one day travelling light and sleeping in Auberges and hotels, maybe that’s the way in this weather.
Later on a French group of 5 bikes and 6 4x4’s showed up for the night, had a good talk to both groups, the leader has been coming to Maroc with tours and raids, a very interesting and knowledgeable gent, also warned going solo on the pistes in the WS and near the Algerian border. After a lovely meal of salad, soup, tajine and fruit, went to bed inside the Landy, no rooms left, still no point putting the roof tent up, so hot and dusty.
So off I set, I could see the track on OLAF’s maps heading North on Ramila before back onto the MS6 again, good. Some 3hrs later still bouncing along, some good track, some bad track, some sand, some feche-feche which was all nice but tiring, went through some outpost of a few shacks where some entrepreneur said he’ll show a quicker way to the dry river bed little feche-feche, after a bit of haggling agreed, another 30mins finally got to the Oued Rheris and sure enough he did show me a shorter easier route across which I was thankfully for.
Followed the track back down the river to MS6 and turned to Zagora, a few kms later passed by about 10 KTM’s bombing along, swapped waves and horn noises a couple pulling wheelies etc and then from nowhere a sand storm appeared, couldn’t see a blooming thing, very glad not to be wild camping.
The nearest village, Tafraoute was still about 12kms away, which took about an hour, absolute nightmare, sand storm cleared and made way for a dust storm, pulled into the Auberge Lac Maider about 6hrs after setting off from Merzouga, absolutely shattered, near 40C, blowing a gale with dust from the dried lake and it lasted till about 18:00, well the dust disappeared which left just the wind.
I just sat inside this friendly little place just drinking cold drinks, absolutely drained.
Initially there was a Portuguese party of about 8 vehicles on a Maroc raid who were doing the MS6 to Merzouga in one day travelling light and sleeping in Auberges and hotels, maybe that’s the way in this weather.
Later on a French group of 5 bikes and 6 4x4’s showed up for the night, had a good talk to both groups, the leader has been coming to Maroc with tours and raids, a very interesting and knowledgeable gent, also warned going solo on the pistes in the WS and near the Algerian border. After a lovely meal of salad, soup, tajine and fruit, went to bed inside the Landy, no rooms left, still no point putting the roof tent up, so hot and dusty.
Weds 30th; Awoke early, I must say the mornings are perfect, a slight chill and heat bearable until about 11:00, thanked the very friendly and welcoming staff at the Auberge, was asked to take a broken motorbike shock to a garage in Zagora, I said no problem, went to settle my bill and they insisted I pay nothing for the food, stay or soft drinks, really generous Moroccan hospitality, thanked them again all hugely, and on my way.
Some 3hrs later on good pistes I arrived in Zagora, dropped off the bike part to the garage, and headed for the campsite, where the wind got up again all afternoon, dusty and about 40C, not my idea of fun, in fact hated it after a while, didn’t put the tent up no point, very little respite on Les Jardins campsite, so sat it out in the Landy and slept inside again. After spending 2hrs cleaning and re-arranging the back of the Landy, everything upside down, moved, plastic box broken and everything covered in dust, like I say the 110 took a pounding, but she made it, fantastic.
Some 3hrs later on good pistes I arrived in Zagora, dropped off the bike part to the garage, and headed for the campsite, where the wind got up again all afternoon, dusty and about 40C, not my idea of fun, in fact hated it after a while, didn’t put the tent up no point, very little respite on Les Jardins campsite, so sat it out in the Landy and slept inside again. After spending 2hrs cleaning and re-arranging the back of the Landy, everything upside down, moved, plastic box broken and everything covered in dust, like I say the 110 took a pounding, but she made it, fantastic.
Thurs 01st;
Another glorious sunrise and weather to start the day, a trip to Garage Iriki to check grunt over, after all that pounding she took thought it better to get her checked over, sure enough both front radius arm bushes were worn, so I said change them and check oils, grease up etc and they did a great job.
The amount of 4x4’s there that had broken something was incredible, all makes and models. Back to camp in another very hot day, not so windy or dusty thankfully, just hotter, sat in the shade, drank a lot, slept a bit, drank a lot, had some food, did some internet stuff and turned in for the night, it just got pleasant to sit out in and it’s only 20:00hrs!?
Les Jardins campsite, a nice open spaced campsite, lots of trees, a nice shaded terrace to eat from the restaurant, rooms on site, near town and currently building a swimming pool.
Another glorious sunrise and weather to start the day, a trip to Garage Iriki to check grunt over, after all that pounding she took thought it better to get her checked over, sure enough both front radius arm bushes were worn, so I said change them and check oils, grease up etc and they did a great job.
The amount of 4x4’s there that had broken something was incredible, all makes and models. Back to camp in another very hot day, not so windy or dusty thankfully, just hotter, sat in the shade, drank a lot, slept a bit, drank a lot, had some food, did some internet stuff and turned in for the night, it just got pleasant to sit out in and it’s only 20:00hrs!?
Les Jardins campsite, a nice open spaced campsite, lots of trees, a nice shaded terrace to eat from the restaurant, rooms on site, near town and currently building a swimming pool.
Fri 02nd; A hot and sticky night’s sleep, away from Zagora just after 08:15 heading towards Foum Zguid on MS5, or what’s left of it, mostly graded now with about 40kms on piste between roadworks.
No problems apart from a short stretch of sand where a French biker had come off, I made sure all was ok, told them that this is the worst bit I’ve seen since Zagora as they were heading that way, they seemed pleased, thanked me and I carried on.
4hrs after leaving Zagora I pulled into FZ, on the Morocco 4x4 forum there’s a helpful chap called MattK (they all are, it’s a great forum), he gave some GPX routes before I left and it’s one of his I wanted to do. But the visibility wasn’t brilliant, from the start dusty winds again and even rain, couldn’t believe it! There’s got be a better time of year to come and do these pistes, I just don’t fancy sitting in a Landy bouncing around for hrs on some piste in hot dusty winds just to say I’ve seen it, because I haven’t, for me it takes the fun out of it and that’s why I’m here, after all it is a holiday. Never mind the windswept dusty campsites as well, could off sat it out, but really!
So feeling disappointed yet again drove on to Tata, a fair drive and got here early afternoon, could off pushed further on, but hot and dusty again, a bit cooler later in the afternoon thankfully, don’t mind the heat, spent 5yrs in the Middle East, but with wind throwing up dust clouds/storms and with little let up makes me an unhappy bunny, I know it’s not hard! LOL!
So some soul searching the last 2 days, on pistes etc, needed a respite so heading towards the coast and Fort Bou Jerif, spend a couple of days there, hope to do the “Plage Blanche” and then I’ll see. Thanks for reading this far and sorry for any disappointments, none more so than me, I suppose reality has ascertained itself again.
No problems apart from a short stretch of sand where a French biker had come off, I made sure all was ok, told them that this is the worst bit I’ve seen since Zagora as they were heading that way, they seemed pleased, thanked me and I carried on.
4hrs after leaving Zagora I pulled into FZ, on the Morocco 4x4 forum there’s a helpful chap called MattK (they all are, it’s a great forum), he gave some GPX routes before I left and it’s one of his I wanted to do. But the visibility wasn’t brilliant, from the start dusty winds again and even rain, couldn’t believe it! There’s got be a better time of year to come and do these pistes, I just don’t fancy sitting in a Landy bouncing around for hrs on some piste in hot dusty winds just to say I’ve seen it, because I haven’t, for me it takes the fun out of it and that’s why I’m here, after all it is a holiday. Never mind the windswept dusty campsites as well, could off sat it out, but really!
So feeling disappointed yet again drove on to Tata, a fair drive and got here early afternoon, could off pushed further on, but hot and dusty again, a bit cooler later in the afternoon thankfully, don’t mind the heat, spent 5yrs in the Middle East, but with wind throwing up dust clouds/storms and with little let up makes me an unhappy bunny, I know it’s not hard! LOL!
So some soul searching the last 2 days, on pistes etc, needed a respite so heading towards the coast and Fort Bou Jerif, spend a couple of days there, hope to do the “Plage Blanche” and then I’ll see. Thanks for reading this far and sorry for any disappointments, none more so than me, I suppose reality has ascertained itself again.
Sat 3rd; A good evening chatting to 3 groups of French overlanders in various vehicles, one landcruiser had broken a rear spring mount on MS5, hoped to get it fixed in Tan Tan.
A good night’s sleep, left Tata and headed towards Akka on the Desert Highway, which in places is an ambitious title, Akka was an nice enough place, on the way to Icht saw one of the group of French overlanders parked up, stopped to make all is well and their 90 had a rear broken spring mount, same thing on both vehicles, Morocco really does test your suspension to breaking point if your unlucky.
I couldn’t be of help, so I carried on towards Taghicht and Bouizakarne, a nice sizable place, passed a few campsites, seemed nice enough didn’t stop though. And arrived Guelmim early afternoon on a nice sunny day, refuelled for the first time since leaving Merzouga, and on to Fort Bou Jerif (FBJ), always wanted to stay here since I saw pics of it somewhere. 9kms down a track and this lovely campsite, hotel etc appears in the middle of nowhere, had a good look around, ordered some Western food to eat tonight, enough of Tajines and cous-cous over the last few days.
Made a cup of tea and sat in a windy, chilly overcast afternoon, the only camper here, can you believe it!? Gotta be better weather in the Shetlands! Oh well at least it’s not dusty, hope to take the tracks to the beaches tomorrow towards Sidi Ifni. Inshallah!
A good night’s sleep, left Tata and headed towards Akka on the Desert Highway, which in places is an ambitious title, Akka was an nice enough place, on the way to Icht saw one of the group of French overlanders parked up, stopped to make all is well and their 90 had a rear broken spring mount, same thing on both vehicles, Morocco really does test your suspension to breaking point if your unlucky.
I couldn’t be of help, so I carried on towards Taghicht and Bouizakarne, a nice sizable place, passed a few campsites, seemed nice enough didn’t stop though. And arrived Guelmim early afternoon on a nice sunny day, refuelled for the first time since leaving Merzouga, and on to Fort Bou Jerif (FBJ), always wanted to stay here since I saw pics of it somewhere. 9kms down a track and this lovely campsite, hotel etc appears in the middle of nowhere, had a good look around, ordered some Western food to eat tonight, enough of Tajines and cous-cous over the last few days.
Made a cup of tea and sat in a windy, chilly overcast afternoon, the only camper here, can you believe it!? Gotta be better weather in the Shetlands! Oh well at least it’s not dusty, hope to take the tracks to the beaches tomorrow towards Sidi Ifni. Inshallah!
Sun 4th; Since leaving UK, I’ve been keeping an eye on this UK groups blog, they seem to be as unlucky as me re weather.
http://land-rover-discovery-1.blogspot.co.uk/
Up earlyish, and in a another nearly empty campsite with a nice mug of tea, 2 French landcruisers had camped overnight and a rather nice French landcruiser camper conversation, apparently the only one made by Toyota, who after building it decided not to build anymore, shame it looked quite nice, well built, and balanced. Though as the owner Steve stated at 3m high it costs more of ferries, tolls etc.
FBJ is a nice enough stopover, though more expensive than other places, 80DH a night and after 4 days of Tajine and cous-cous, decided to have kebab and chips in the restaurant, food was nice enough, 2 kebabs, chips and veg, 120DH, very expensive really, €12 approx.
Anyway thanked them and left for Sidi Ifni on a lovely piste towards the coast, passed the old military Fort Bou Jerif, along some really nice tracks, testing in places and got to the top of a hill where the 2 landcruisers were, because of the steep bumpy descent into the valley, one of the ladies with didn’t like it and they went back to hit tarmac to Sidi Ifni.
The track started ok, then got very steep, bumpy and technical in places, a couple of very tight hairpins, 1st gear low range needed, no photos too busy driving and holding gearstick in, after some 20mins bottomed out in the valley across a bridge and hit tarmac to Sidi Ifni, pleased to do the piste without problems, spotted some Series 3 vehicles near the fishing huts, old workhorses still going strong.
A lovely drive along the coast road to lovely Sidi Ifni, one of the last places to be held by the Spanish, stopped at a souk to buy meat and veg, brought 2 whole breasts of turkey, loads of veg, spuds all for the about the cost of last night’s meal, I’ll make my own kebabs.
A sunny warm hazy afternoon, pitched tent for the 1st time since leaving Merzouga in El Barco camping, right on the seafront, got out the Bushpig Braai, 1st time since Merzouga and really looked forward to camping as I know and love it, again.
Had several scrumptious kebab with lyonnaise potatoes, a glass of orange juice, also ran out of wine a week ago, outrageous.
Then had a nice evening catching with the 2 French couples in their landcruisers, and 2 more French couples in their new MAN trucks, the gents seemed happy with the new toys, though at €200k each their wives weren’t too sure.
And so to bed overlooking the sea and hearing the waves wash in.
http://land-rover-discovery-1.blogspot.co.uk/
Up earlyish, and in a another nearly empty campsite with a nice mug of tea, 2 French landcruisers had camped overnight and a rather nice French landcruiser camper conversation, apparently the only one made by Toyota, who after building it decided not to build anymore, shame it looked quite nice, well built, and balanced. Though as the owner Steve stated at 3m high it costs more of ferries, tolls etc.
FBJ is a nice enough stopover, though more expensive than other places, 80DH a night and after 4 days of Tajine and cous-cous, decided to have kebab and chips in the restaurant, food was nice enough, 2 kebabs, chips and veg, 120DH, very expensive really, €12 approx.
Anyway thanked them and left for Sidi Ifni on a lovely piste towards the coast, passed the old military Fort Bou Jerif, along some really nice tracks, testing in places and got to the top of a hill where the 2 landcruisers were, because of the steep bumpy descent into the valley, one of the ladies with didn’t like it and they went back to hit tarmac to Sidi Ifni.
The track started ok, then got very steep, bumpy and technical in places, a couple of very tight hairpins, 1st gear low range needed, no photos too busy driving and holding gearstick in, after some 20mins bottomed out in the valley across a bridge and hit tarmac to Sidi Ifni, pleased to do the piste without problems, spotted some Series 3 vehicles near the fishing huts, old workhorses still going strong.
A lovely drive along the coast road to lovely Sidi Ifni, one of the last places to be held by the Spanish, stopped at a souk to buy meat and veg, brought 2 whole breasts of turkey, loads of veg, spuds all for the about the cost of last night’s meal, I’ll make my own kebabs.
A sunny warm hazy afternoon, pitched tent for the 1st time since leaving Merzouga in El Barco camping, right on the seafront, got out the Bushpig Braai, 1st time since Merzouga and really looked forward to camping as I know and love it, again.
Had several scrumptious kebab with lyonnaise potatoes, a glass of orange juice, also ran out of wine a week ago, outrageous.
Then had a nice evening catching with the 2 French couples in their landcruisers, and 2 more French couples in their new MAN trucks, the gents seemed happy with the new toys, though at €200k each their wives weren’t too sure.
And so to bed overlooking the sea and hearing the waves wash in.
Mon 5th; Up early in another warm overcast day, just a short hop today up the coast to try a new campsite in Aglou Plage. A really nice drive, some rather nice villas and houses along this part of the coast, stopped to give Grunt a wash, and got to camp early afternoon, did some dobie and relaxed in the afternoon sun.
Then the clouds came over, oh well, had a nice bite to eat, a mug of tea and wandered around the site, met a Dutch couple, wished them a happy liberation day, thanked and invited for a G&T, why not. Turns out she’s Dutch and he’s English, had a great chat for a hr or 2, they have just sold their house here after 10yrs and just going back, their son married a local girl, moved to London, now lives back here. It was good hearing their experiences of Morocco over the last 10yrs.
Then this Dutch guy turns up, he’s from the ACSI camping website, on a tour of Morocco with 10 campervans/caravans and doesn’t seem impressed with Morocco or its campsites so far.
Anyway, thanked my hosts, wished them well and turned in.
Then the clouds came over, oh well, had a nice bite to eat, a mug of tea and wandered around the site, met a Dutch couple, wished them a happy liberation day, thanked and invited for a G&T, why not. Turns out she’s Dutch and he’s English, had a great chat for a hr or 2, they have just sold their house here after 10yrs and just going back, their son married a local girl, moved to London, now lives back here. It was good hearing their experiences of Morocco over the last 10yrs.
Then this Dutch guy turns up, he’s from the ACSI camping website, on a tour of Morocco with 10 campervans/caravans and doesn’t seem impressed with Morocco or its campsites so far.
Anyway, thanked my hosts, wished them well and turned in.
Tues 6th; A nice breakfast, 2 mugs of tea and on my way to the lovely area around Tafraoute, a lovely winding climbing drive through this scenic area, got Tiffermit was there was a diversion on, roadworks, but yes you guessed it, told to go straight on, no problem. InShallah.
Sure enough, road ended and the roadworks began, piste, graded piste and tarmacking the road towards Tafraoute, an unexpected but pleasant piste.
Camped in the Takra Camping in the hot sunny afternoon, had a quick look at the other 2 campsites but choose this one. A nice evening meal, mug of tea, then a thunderstorm came along, marvellous!? Going to do the odd piste, see what the weathers like in the morning, otherwise heading for Agadir to stock up and see what’s the place is all about.
Sure enough, road ended and the roadworks began, piste, graded piste and tarmacking the road towards Tafraoute, an unexpected but pleasant piste.
Camped in the Takra Camping in the hot sunny afternoon, had a quick look at the other 2 campsites but choose this one. A nice evening meal, mug of tea, then a thunderstorm came along, marvellous!? Going to do the odd piste, see what the weathers like in the morning, otherwise heading for Agadir to stock up and see what’s the place is all about.
Weds 7th; The tent was lashed with wind and rain nearly all night, glad to say awoke in a brighter day, and looked around this very scenic little seemingly bypassed part of Morocco.
It really is a beautiful part of Morocco, so different, even on sealed roads the views were very scenic, roads went off in all directions to little villages nestled into the mountainside, gorges everywhere, scenic tree plains, fields of wheat and the road that just twisted and climbed it’s way to several peaks before eventually descending towards Agadir. A lovely drive, it made a change.
Stopped at a Marjane to stock up and onto the campsite, there’s only one in Agadir and expected more, a lot more as it’s the only site and the fact that a lot Frenchies in their Tupperware boxes come here for 2/3mths over winter, snowbirds the yanks call them.
The campsite was a disappointment, lack of maintenance everywhere, toilets, showers, pool was empty and dirty, windows were broken in the closed pool bar/restaurant area, shop was tatty, just a poor effort all round. Especially when you consider this to be, arguably the most westernised of Moroccan cities and at 100DH (€10) a night not that cheap either, though like most other campsites whether you’re in a Landy and a tent or a 40ft motorhome the price is the same. If the ACSI team stopped here, know wonder they didn’t think much of Morocco, hopefully their outlook will brighten.
After a spot of late lunch, decided to go for a walk and began to wonder what brings people here, then I saw the seafront and promenade, and was most pleasantly surprised, a huge promenade along which were loads of restaurants/bars/shops etc, behind a beautiful long golden sand beach area, really liked it, though to be said you’ll see the same in most euroland MED coastal places, but for Morocco, good luck to them.
A lovely evening, talking to people, dinner and bed.
It really is a beautiful part of Morocco, so different, even on sealed roads the views were very scenic, roads went off in all directions to little villages nestled into the mountainside, gorges everywhere, scenic tree plains, fields of wheat and the road that just twisted and climbed it’s way to several peaks before eventually descending towards Agadir. A lovely drive, it made a change.
Stopped at a Marjane to stock up and onto the campsite, there’s only one in Agadir and expected more, a lot more as it’s the only site and the fact that a lot Frenchies in their Tupperware boxes come here for 2/3mths over winter, snowbirds the yanks call them.
The campsite was a disappointment, lack of maintenance everywhere, toilets, showers, pool was empty and dirty, windows were broken in the closed pool bar/restaurant area, shop was tatty, just a poor effort all round. Especially when you consider this to be, arguably the most westernised of Moroccan cities and at 100DH (€10) a night not that cheap either, though like most other campsites whether you’re in a Landy and a tent or a 40ft motorhome the price is the same. If the ACSI team stopped here, know wonder they didn’t think much of Morocco, hopefully their outlook will brighten.
After a spot of late lunch, decided to go for a walk and began to wonder what brings people here, then I saw the seafront and promenade, and was most pleasantly surprised, a huge promenade along which were loads of restaurants/bars/shops etc, behind a beautiful long golden sand beach area, really liked it, though to be said you’ll see the same in most euroland MED coastal places, but for Morocco, good luck to them.
A lovely evening, talking to people, dinner and bed.
Thurs 8th; A bright start to the morning and off to see the famous goats in trees, Argan trees to be exact and then Essaouira.
Had a bit of trouble initially finding any, saw goats and trees just not goats in them, but drove around up various lanes into different parts of another different yet scenic area of Morocco and finally saw goats in trees, took a load pics and along came the herder for some buckshee, why not, and he chatted about the herd, Argan trees and his life in general which was interesting.
Happy to have seen them, thanked him and on my to Essaouira, got there early afternoon, and what a change 18mths make, the only campsite near the city, over half of which has been “borrowed” for some building project, so what was a nice campsite is now a shadow of its former self.
A V shaped wall now runs through the middle of the campsite, and the camp shows signs of little upkeep, I suppose with a lot of it taken, the rest could be soon. Anyway planned to stay a couple of days, plugged the electric in and got electric shock putting up the roof tent, tried another set of sockets, same thing obviously no earth somewhere, so unplugged the lead and didn’t bother with the hook-up.
I was going to stay for another night, I really like Essaouira, but with a fridge full of food, needed power, so moved on.
A shame, some people call it progress!?
Had a bit of trouble initially finding any, saw goats and trees just not goats in them, but drove around up various lanes into different parts of another different yet scenic area of Morocco and finally saw goats in trees, took a load pics and along came the herder for some buckshee, why not, and he chatted about the herd, Argan trees and his life in general which was interesting.
Happy to have seen them, thanked him and on my to Essaouira, got there early afternoon, and what a change 18mths make, the only campsite near the city, over half of which has been “borrowed” for some building project, so what was a nice campsite is now a shadow of its former self.
A V shaped wall now runs through the middle of the campsite, and the camp shows signs of little upkeep, I suppose with a lot of it taken, the rest could be soon. Anyway planned to stay a couple of days, plugged the electric in and got electric shock putting up the roof tent, tried another set of sockets, same thing obviously no earth somewhere, so unplugged the lead and didn’t bother with the hook-up.
I was going to stay for another night, I really like Essaouira, but with a fridge full of food, needed power, so moved on.
A shame, some people call it progress!?
Fri 9th; Chickened out today, start of having a more normal holiday, decided to go Marrakeck and Les Relais camping for a few days, nice easy lovely drive, met up with one of the same French group of Landies. Interestingly they had a Disco 3 in the group and engine management system kept cutting out when it got really hot on the pistes south of Zagora, not helpful, they had also 3 TDCI engine Defenders, 2 x 110’s and a special 130 and they seem to say the best engine yet.
The weather got more holiday like, washed Grunt again, stocked up in a Marjane and pitched tent in early afternoon sunshine and just relaxed.
A lazy afternoon, showered, swam a few times and just relaxed, finally starting to relax on the a lovely evening to chatting other 4x4 owners and campers, a rather nice Bearmach 3.5t was on site and had a good chat to the Austrian owner, powered by an Iveco, very well built and strong and only 1.5mtrs wide, not much good if you want to sleep lengthways but a very nice 4x4 camper all the same.
The weather got more holiday like, washed Grunt again, stocked up in a Marjane and pitched tent in early afternoon sunshine and just relaxed.
A lazy afternoon, showered, swam a few times and just relaxed, finally starting to relax on the a lovely evening to chatting other 4x4 owners and campers, a rather nice Bearmach 3.5t was on site and had a good chat to the Austrian owner, powered by an Iveco, very well built and strong and only 1.5mtrs wide, not much good if you want to sleep lengthways but a very nice 4x4 camper all the same.
Sat 10th and Sun 11th; A lazy couple of days, the WI-FI was down for some unknown reason, so it made it even lazier.
Mon 12th; I was going to move on today into the Atlas mountains, but WI-FI still down, should be up today as everyone’s back at work. Inshallah!
Loads of stuff to catch up on online and I have enough food for tonight, so may stay here again tonight and move tomorrow and the weather is roasting, into the 40C’s, so just enjoying it.
Mon 12th; I was going to move on today into the Atlas mountains, but WI-FI still down, should be up today as everyone’s back at work. Inshallah!
Loads of stuff to catch up on online and I have enough food for tonight, so may stay here again tonight and move tomorrow and the weather is roasting, into the 40C’s, so just enjoying it.
Tues 13th; Off into the Atlas mountains today to see the “Cathedrale des Roches”, an hr out of Marrakech, temp gauge goes to ¾, that’s odd! Cold blows through the heater?! A quick check all seems OK, then heater turns hot and temp gauge goes to normal. Don’t like it, Grunt’s never done that before, missed the pistes, headed straight for Azrou and Euro camping.
A stop for lunch, all seems ok, got the camping, pitched tent and relaxed in the afternoon sunshine, checked levels, water low, that’s not normal for Grunt, so topped-up.
Another lovely evening with a split chicken on a Braai, and a glass.
A stop for lunch, all seems ok, got the camping, pitched tent and relaxed in the afternoon sunshine, checked levels, water low, that’s not normal for Grunt, so topped-up.
Another lovely evening with a split chicken on a Braai, and a glass.
Weds 14th; Decided to go into the mountains do some pistes, see the monkeys and check the coolant/heating situation. Same thing, straight to ¾ on temp gauge, cold air, then hot and gauge normal, me no like.
Back to camp, allow Grunt to cool down and check, needs more water not possible, no real signs of a leak. So thought s.it, now what?! Put the kettle on!
And thought, you lucky barsteward, If on my original plan I’d be in Dakhla or even 100 times worse on a Gandini piste either way I could have been really in the mire, both Grunt and I. Very thankfully for whoever is watching over me, a great friend says you make your own luck in life, maybe that’s right, I’m just grateful of any coming my way.
Here there’s WI-FI and a GSM signal, so a quick search narrowed it down and 6 things, read the Haynes manual and phoned an LR mechanic in the UK, could be an airlock, bleed system, so bled system correctly, loads of bubbles coming out, sorted and now all seems ok.
A worrying night’s sleep after a Braai and a glass etc.
Back to camp, allow Grunt to cool down and check, needs more water not possible, no real signs of a leak. So thought s.it, now what?! Put the kettle on!
And thought, you lucky barsteward, If on my original plan I’d be in Dakhla or even 100 times worse on a Gandini piste either way I could have been really in the mire, both Grunt and I. Very thankfully for whoever is watching over me, a great friend says you make your own luck in life, maybe that’s right, I’m just grateful of any coming my way.
Here there’s WI-FI and a GSM signal, so a quick search narrowed it down and 6 things, read the Haynes manual and phoned an LR mechanic in the UK, could be an airlock, bleed system, so bled system correctly, loads of bubbles coming out, sorted and now all seems ok.
A worrying night’s sleep after a Braai and a glass etc.
Thurs 15th; Up early check levels, needs water? A leak? Filled header tank and water dripped and dripped from some around the water pump/gasket area, well at least I found a leak.
Got onto the very helpful staff here at Euro camping, one of which took me to a mechanic in Azrou, a great bloke and a great mechanic hopefully, knows Landys and spotted the water pump peeing water out. Took 30 odd mins to remove pump and sure enough, pump sealing rings and bypass had perished and it was that leaking water.
So now what, a phone around no pumps in Azrou, but in Meknes about 1hr away there is, another Mechanic drives me there to buy one and we return after about 3hrs, after a stop for lunch, his control and speed while driving about 4.5ins of the vehicle in front, would of made Lewis Hamilton proud!
€80 for the pump, the other mechanic fits it and all seems well, in less than an 1hr all fitted back together, no leaks seemingly, coolant and oil levels checked, they put in a pre-mix water/anti-freeze solution here and routinely change the water pump at 50k kms.
So after paying the man a bit more than he asked and still only €50, bid him farewell and back to camp. Will post his address/GPS details later in UK.
So what a day! Check fluids in Camp after a while all seems OK, push to Chefchaouen hopefully tomorrow, no Braai tonight just one of the lovely Tajines here cooked at the campsite.
Got onto the very helpful staff here at Euro camping, one of which took me to a mechanic in Azrou, a great bloke and a great mechanic hopefully, knows Landys and spotted the water pump peeing water out. Took 30 odd mins to remove pump and sure enough, pump sealing rings and bypass had perished and it was that leaking water.
So now what, a phone around no pumps in Azrou, but in Meknes about 1hr away there is, another Mechanic drives me there to buy one and we return after about 3hrs, after a stop for lunch, his control and speed while driving about 4.5ins of the vehicle in front, would of made Lewis Hamilton proud!
€80 for the pump, the other mechanic fits it and all seems well, in less than an 1hr all fitted back together, no leaks seemingly, coolant and oil levels checked, they put in a pre-mix water/anti-freeze solution here and routinely change the water pump at 50k kms.
So after paying the man a bit more than he asked and still only €50, bid him farewell and back to camp. Will post his address/GPS details later in UK.
So what a day! Check fluids in Camp after a while all seems OK, push to Chefchaouen hopefully tomorrow, no Braai tonight just one of the lovely Tajines here cooked at the campsite.
Fri 16th; Awoke early and after a dose of early morning Tajine trots, on my way, up along the lovely scenic road from Azrou to Meknes, through stunning Meknes, never really stopped here, hopefully next time.
Along and around the old fort and souk and out towards Moulay Idriss and scenic Quenanne, another small town with a new road, the building of roads/houses/buildings here in Morocco is incredible, it just goes on.
And so do I towards Chefchaouen and so after an early start, an early arrival, pitch tent, a quick nap, a shower and into town. It just so happens there’s a music/art festival on, but I didn’t take my camera, so after some obligatory “one in a lifetime ancient Moroccan hand-crafted souvenirs and fridge magnets” were haggled for, back to camp for camera and into town.
A really lovely afternoon, watching the local musicians, and seeing parts of this lovely blue town, including a wander around the old Kashbar, before sitting down to a more western stable menu overlooking the Kashbar and listening to the musicians and just people watching on a lovely sunny day.
Back to camp, a bit pleased with myself, checked Grunt, no water/oil loss, great and after making a decent mug of tea, wandered around the campsite chatting to others in their overland vehicles, namely 2 German couples, 1 elderly in a massive MAN truck on a 1st tour of Maroc and a much younger couple with an 8 mth old baby who’d had been in Morocco for 2mths and just travelling around, it was good chatting and swapping experiences.
Along and around the old fort and souk and out towards Moulay Idriss and scenic Quenanne, another small town with a new road, the building of roads/houses/buildings here in Morocco is incredible, it just goes on.
And so do I towards Chefchaouen and so after an early start, an early arrival, pitch tent, a quick nap, a shower and into town. It just so happens there’s a music/art festival on, but I didn’t take my camera, so after some obligatory “one in a lifetime ancient Moroccan hand-crafted souvenirs and fridge magnets” were haggled for, back to camp for camera and into town.
A really lovely afternoon, watching the local musicians, and seeing parts of this lovely blue town, including a wander around the old Kashbar, before sitting down to a more western stable menu overlooking the Kashbar and listening to the musicians and just people watching on a lovely sunny day.
Back to camp, a bit pleased with myself, checked Grunt, no water/oil loss, great and after making a decent mug of tea, wandered around the campsite chatting to others in their overland vehicles, namely 2 German couples, 1 elderly in a massive MAN truck on a 1st tour of Maroc and a much younger couple with an 8 mth old baby who’d had been in Morocco for 2mths and just travelling around, it was good chatting and swapping experiences.
Sat 17th; Up early at 05:30, packed tent away, checked Grunt water/oil again, all good, a quick wash, a mug of tea and on my way.
Decided to leave Morocco and head North early, had already changed the Spain-UK ferry booking, don’t kike just sitting around wasting time, so decided to push to UK earlier and enjoy more holiday there, catching up with family/friends and getting grunt checked over.
Also it’ll be the 1st time for over 8yrs I’ve actually spent any holiday over a few days in the UK.
After filling up with diesel at an increased rate of 0.90DH per ltr, it was just 0.65DH on my 1st visit about 4yrs ago, oh well, quality is certainly better. Got to port in time for the 10:00 ferry, bypassed the touts which have now appeared, boarding pass obtained, money changed, paasport stamped, D16 sorted and waved straight through customs, Grunt x-rayed and onto join the queue in the port.
Boarded, docked over an hr and a half later, through customs into a windy Algercias, decided to push for Camping Villsom in Dos Hermanas, Grunt breezed it all the way and arrived in hot sunny weather at about 15:30, pitched tent, showered and relaxed, a homemade Spanish omelette with Lyonnaise potatoes, a glass of Spanish wine, a mug of tea and relaxed again after a busy but thankfully uneventful day.
Decided to leave Morocco and head North early, had already changed the Spain-UK ferry booking, don’t kike just sitting around wasting time, so decided to push to UK earlier and enjoy more holiday there, catching up with family/friends and getting grunt checked over.
Also it’ll be the 1st time for over 8yrs I’ve actually spent any holiday over a few days in the UK.
After filling up with diesel at an increased rate of 0.90DH per ltr, it was just 0.65DH on my 1st visit about 4yrs ago, oh well, quality is certainly better. Got to port in time for the 10:00 ferry, bypassed the touts which have now appeared, boarding pass obtained, money changed, paasport stamped, D16 sorted and waved straight through customs, Grunt x-rayed and onto join the queue in the port.
Boarded, docked over an hr and a half later, through customs into a windy Algercias, decided to push for Camping Villsom in Dos Hermanas, Grunt breezed it all the way and arrived in hot sunny weather at about 15:30, pitched tent, showered and relaxed, a homemade Spanish omelette with Lyonnaise potatoes, a glass of Spanish wine, a mug of tea and relaxed again after a busy but thankfully uneventful day.
Sun 18th; Up early but in no particual hurry to head north to the campsite at Caceres, a short drive in glorious weather, arrived early afternoon and enjoyed the rest of the day.
This whole area of Spain up to and across the Portuguese border isn't really an area I've seen enough of, sadly this wasn't the trip either, my mind was set on getting back home and enjoying Spring in England.
Mon 19th; A longish drive to Santander which Grunt just cruised, through again some really beautiful parts of Spain, stopped this time at Camping Cabo Mayor, a nice lovely relaxing drive, arrived late afternoon, pleased to be in Santander without further trouble and a bit sad another trip comes to a shortened end, but with the knowledge the next trip can be thought about.
Tues 20th; A good walk needed today around the cape, lighthouse and this part of Santander to clear my head a little and pick out the positives of the trip, the new places I've seen, the great people I've meet and whether Grunt needs to make way for a purchase of a 4x4 camper.
Did some shopping, a lovely evening and turned in for the night.
Weds 21st; Ferry day, but not until 21:15, it'll be a long day! And it was, left the campsite and ambled down to the port, not before heading along the coast towards the lovely little cove and the Bambara tavern and off around Santander.
Got to the port far too early, but parked up and wandered around Santander for a couple of hours, a nice properous scenic place which is the "European city of sport 2014" apparently, good luck to them!
After what seemed ages, eventually moved forward through passport/customs and sat again for ages until about 21:00 before being loaded and then asked to reverse park into a gap on the edge of the deck, marvellous, could be a while before I disembark then. (No actually one of the first ones off, couldn't believe it).
This crossing to Plymouth was not only being cheaper than changing to Portsmouth but also 4hrs quicker, but still a long time when your eager to get somewhere.
Thurs 22nd; Slept well enough but keen to get moving again in Grunt, docked on time at 16:15 and straight off the ferry around the numerous roundabouts, and speed cameras that litter Plymouth. Push grunt on a bit all the way home, a lovely scenic drive along the A35, arrived home at 20:00, tired, unpacke dthe Landy and just sat and reflected.
This whole area of Spain up to and across the Portuguese border isn't really an area I've seen enough of, sadly this wasn't the trip either, my mind was set on getting back home and enjoying Spring in England.
Mon 19th; A longish drive to Santander which Grunt just cruised, through again some really beautiful parts of Spain, stopped this time at Camping Cabo Mayor, a nice lovely relaxing drive, arrived late afternoon, pleased to be in Santander without further trouble and a bit sad another trip comes to a shortened end, but with the knowledge the next trip can be thought about.
Tues 20th; A good walk needed today around the cape, lighthouse and this part of Santander to clear my head a little and pick out the positives of the trip, the new places I've seen, the great people I've meet and whether Grunt needs to make way for a purchase of a 4x4 camper.
Did some shopping, a lovely evening and turned in for the night.
Weds 21st; Ferry day, but not until 21:15, it'll be a long day! And it was, left the campsite and ambled down to the port, not before heading along the coast towards the lovely little cove and the Bambara tavern and off around Santander.
Got to the port far too early, but parked up and wandered around Santander for a couple of hours, a nice properous scenic place which is the "European city of sport 2014" apparently, good luck to them!
After what seemed ages, eventually moved forward through passport/customs and sat again for ages until about 21:00 before being loaded and then asked to reverse park into a gap on the edge of the deck, marvellous, could be a while before I disembark then. (No actually one of the first ones off, couldn't believe it).
This crossing to Plymouth was not only being cheaper than changing to Portsmouth but also 4hrs quicker, but still a long time when your eager to get somewhere.
Thurs 22nd; Slept well enough but keen to get moving again in Grunt, docked on time at 16:15 and straight off the ferry around the numerous roundabouts, and speed cameras that litter Plymouth. Push grunt on a bit all the way home, a lovely scenic drive along the A35, arrived home at 20:00, tired, unpacke dthe Landy and just sat and reflected.