4th August - 29th August Actual
Another stunning trip, this time to Corsica, which has to be one of the most beautiful and varied places in the world. It has stunning mountains, lakes, beaches, pretty ports, some great vineries, gorges, tunnels, forests, bridges, pretty villages, nice towns, some great driving roads and dirt tracks.
Along with some great local produce and friendly happy people.
Down through France, over the Alps into Italy, drive the Col du Sommelier, onto the Italian coast, ferry to Corsica, 15 days there, back to Italy and climb the Col du Tende into Italy again, and back up through France. 2,718mls
4th August;
Grunt has been cleaned, packed, aired up, along with water and fuel tanks filled. I’ll try and post some meaningful travelog and photos on here.
SPOT Tracker link; http://www.findmespot.com/spotadventures/index.php/view_adventure?tripid=324873
Grunt has been cleaned, packed, aired up, along with water and fuel tanks filled. I’ll try and post some meaningful travelog and photos on here.
SPOT Tracker link; http://www.findmespot.com/spotadventures/index.php/view_adventure?tripid=324873
5th; A very calm and pleasant sea crossing got us into Le Havre on time at 08:00hrs.
Grunt breezed the 340mls (approx., the longest day of the whole trip) to Macon, France, though on tolls roads it cost about €75.00 (most because of height), but I needed to make good time and I did. Arrived at 15:30, 8hrs after leaving Le Havre, the Paris ring road took a bit longer due to the fact that an exit onto the A8 main motorway South-East had suddenly got a 2m height restriction, bizarre.
Took a while to find an alternate route, and when I did, plain sailing, bar 3 stops for toilets and letting Grunt cool down a bit, as it was into the 30’sC.
I thing I have thought a lot about is a 4x4 camper, but based so far on French road works, tunnels and going downhill, I’m rethinking this. In roadworks, tunnels and steep descents, all vehicles over 3.5t have to; not overtake and stay in the inside lane and do 90kph max. So what I, Grunt, lost uphill, any roadworks, tunnels etc which is a lot so far, I was able cruise pass any vehicle take overtook me uphill.
Lovely campsite in Macon, great facilities and a reasonable €17.05 a night.
Grunt breezed the 340mls (approx., the longest day of the whole trip) to Macon, France, though on tolls roads it cost about €75.00 (most because of height), but I needed to make good time and I did. Arrived at 15:30, 8hrs after leaving Le Havre, the Paris ring road took a bit longer due to the fact that an exit onto the A8 main motorway South-East had suddenly got a 2m height restriction, bizarre.
Took a while to find an alternate route, and when I did, plain sailing, bar 3 stops for toilets and letting Grunt cool down a bit, as it was into the 30’sC.
I thing I have thought a lot about is a 4x4 camper, but based so far on French road works, tunnels and going downhill, I’m rethinking this. In roadworks, tunnels and steep descents, all vehicles over 3.5t have to; not overtake and stay in the inside lane and do 90kph max. So what I, Grunt, lost uphill, any roadworks, tunnels etc which is a lot so far, I was able cruise pass any vehicle take overtook me uphill.
Lovely campsite in Macon, great facilities and a reasonable €17.05 a night.
6th; A stormy night around the area, but not on the campsite. Awoke early, shower, 2 cups of tea, packed away and hit the road. Straight forward until the French had close the motorway entry road, so another detour and headed South and then East towards Italy.
Tolls roads and through the expensive tunnel at €40.70, but wanted to do the Col de Sommelier, and I almost did, snow again, had to stop at 2,730m when the track became impassable, and only about 1.5km from the summit, oh well. Stunning scenery until a really heavy rain/hailstorm came in, met some great people, including a hitchhiker to whom I gave a lift down the mountain and dropped him off near his wife who had wisely turned back and still walking back down, but to her dismay and silence when he got out, she huffed and carried on walking. LOL. She was not impressed!
Back to glorious sunshine again, just like that, and a lovely time down the rest of the track, onto tarmac, and about 20kms to the campsite. Met a brit in a 110, who just left the army and was driving back from Cyprus to UK, via Georgia, Turkey, Croatia etc etc, interesting guy and a nice 110.
Also met an organised 4x4 tour out of the UK in the campsite, charging for the same things we were doing, and we both wondered why, if you don’t want to travel alone, get some friends, or go on the forums and travel. Each to their own I suppose, I rather enjoy the planning etc, and money saved sometimes almost equals the cost of a trip.
Nice enough campsite in Salterband, excellent facilities, and only €17.50 a night, not too bad.
Tolls roads and through the expensive tunnel at €40.70, but wanted to do the Col de Sommelier, and I almost did, snow again, had to stop at 2,730m when the track became impassable, and only about 1.5km from the summit, oh well. Stunning scenery until a really heavy rain/hailstorm came in, met some great people, including a hitchhiker to whom I gave a lift down the mountain and dropped him off near his wife who had wisely turned back and still walking back down, but to her dismay and silence when he got out, she huffed and carried on walking. LOL. She was not impressed!
Back to glorious sunshine again, just like that, and a lovely time down the rest of the track, onto tarmac, and about 20kms to the campsite. Met a brit in a 110, who just left the army and was driving back from Cyprus to UK, via Georgia, Turkey, Croatia etc etc, interesting guy and a nice 110.
Also met an organised 4x4 tour out of the UK in the campsite, charging for the same things we were doing, and we both wondered why, if you don’t want to travel alone, get some friends, or go on the forums and travel. Each to their own I suppose, I rather enjoy the planning etc, and money saved sometimes almost equals the cost of a trip.
Nice enough campsite in Salterband, excellent facilities, and only €17.50 a night, not too bad.
7th; A bit of a surprise, it rained most of the night, but hey ho, we are in the mountains.
Up early, mug of tea, shower etc etc and off.
Only 250kms to next stop, so took a very beautiful scenic route to the Italian coast, passing some glorious alpine villages and towns, plenty of switchbacks and a couple of cols. Absolutely brilliant drive, I love this whole part of the Italian alps.
Made camp at around 14:30 and was told that will be €49.00 a night, thx, but no thx, motorhome prices, so my 2nd choice was about 1km nearer the town was only €23.00, no contest really, so pitched up at around 15:00 and just relaxed in hazy hot sunshine.
A bit of internet, and a glass of local bubbly, which chilled and only €2 a glass, very nice.
Up early, mug of tea, shower etc etc and off.
Only 250kms to next stop, so took a very beautiful scenic route to the Italian coast, passing some glorious alpine villages and towns, plenty of switchbacks and a couple of cols. Absolutely brilliant drive, I love this whole part of the Italian alps.
Made camp at around 14:30 and was told that will be €49.00 a night, thx, but no thx, motorhome prices, so my 2nd choice was about 1km nearer the town was only €23.00, no contest really, so pitched up at around 15:00 and just relaxed in hazy hot sunshine.
A bit of internet, and a glass of local bubbly, which chilled and only €2 a glass, very nice.
8th; Awoke to a heavy downpour, then stopped, excellent, cup of tea and breakfast, showered and ready for the day. Not this type of day though, thunder, lightning, monsoon type rain and still 25C, reminded me of the tropics, not the Med coast, oh well, drove to the port in plenty of time, far too early, drove in and around Savona, which was nice enough but not the most scenic Italian coastal town I’ve been to.
After a couple of hrs wandering around sheltering from the downpour, I made it back to port, which is probably, no, is the easiest port to get into and out of, port official scanned the e-ticket and I joined the queue to board.
A real party atmosphere on board, bars and food outlets already open and busy, good quality food, excellent Corsican wine of offer, had a great time even though it’s a 6hr+ trip.
Docked about 30mins late in the rain, and headed for my planned campsite with no reservation, couldn't book and now full. 40mins off the ferry I got to Prezzo Camping, St Florent at about 20:30 and they had space. Pitched tent in record time, cracked a bottle and sank a couple of glasses before hitting the sack. Couldn’t see much of Corsica initially because the light and poor weather.
After a couple of hrs wandering around sheltering from the downpour, I made it back to port, which is probably, no, is the easiest port to get into and out of, port official scanned the e-ticket and I joined the queue to board.
A real party atmosphere on board, bars and food outlets already open and busy, good quality food, excellent Corsican wine of offer, had a great time even though it’s a 6hr+ trip.
Docked about 30mins late in the rain, and headed for my planned campsite with no reservation, couldn't book and now full. 40mins off the ferry I got to Prezzo Camping, St Florent at about 20:30 and they had space. Pitched tent in record time, cracked a bottle and sank a couple of glasses before hitting the sack. Couldn’t see much of Corsica initially because the light and poor weather.
9th; Awake on and off all night, some family members said the weather might be worse in Corsica then the UK, how I laughed, but after constant thunder, lightning and heavy rain most of the night, I began to wonder.
However awaking up to sunshine and 25C, thought this isn’t so bad, had a mug of tea and relaxed in the morning sunshine.
Just a getting to know Corsica day today, but after some reading a while ago, I planned a route around the northern part of the island. And so after 4hrs of fantastic driving through some stunning scenery, I arrived back in St Florent and the campsite.
Drove all the way up the Western side through some really stunning scenery and pretty cliffside villages, all the way to Centuri, a lovely little fishing village, this whole part of the island reminds me of Croatia/Greece/and other unspoilt parts of the med, the almost barren landscape, intermingled with bright flowers, vineyards and picturesque properties. I love Corsica already!
Then across and down the Eastern side through Macinaggio, which was pretty port but with quite a few more tourists, but I preferred Centuri, it was more rustic and real. Down the coast all the way into Bastia and then followed the same route over the middle of the island back into St Florent, but not before stopping in Patrimonio, one of the island famous for its French wine AOC, a really nice wine, red or white, haven’t tried the rose.
Back to camp, finishing the washing that had spent 4hrs in a tub on the roof rack, put that out to dry, and wandered along the beach into town and just enjoyed the rest of the day, sightseeing, shopping, swimming and a steak cooked on the Bushpig Braai over a glass or 3 of Corsican wine in the evening sunshine. A great day.
However awaking up to sunshine and 25C, thought this isn’t so bad, had a mug of tea and relaxed in the morning sunshine.
Just a getting to know Corsica day today, but after some reading a while ago, I planned a route around the northern part of the island. And so after 4hrs of fantastic driving through some stunning scenery, I arrived back in St Florent and the campsite.
Drove all the way up the Western side through some really stunning scenery and pretty cliffside villages, all the way to Centuri, a lovely little fishing village, this whole part of the island reminds me of Croatia/Greece/and other unspoilt parts of the med, the almost barren landscape, intermingled with bright flowers, vineyards and picturesque properties. I love Corsica already!
Then across and down the Eastern side through Macinaggio, which was pretty port but with quite a few more tourists, but I preferred Centuri, it was more rustic and real. Down the coast all the way into Bastia and then followed the same route over the middle of the island back into St Florent, but not before stopping in Patrimonio, one of the island famous for its French wine AOC, a really nice wine, red or white, haven’t tried the rose.
Back to camp, finishing the washing that had spent 4hrs in a tub on the roof rack, put that out to dry, and wandered along the beach into town and just enjoyed the rest of the day, sightseeing, shopping, swimming and a steak cooked on the Bushpig Braai over a glass or 3 of Corsican wine in the evening sunshine. A great day.
10TH; A lovely night in this lovely little campsite, awoke had a mug of tea sat on the beach overlooking St Florent, could have stayed there a few more days easily, but I wanted to see more and do the odd dirt track.
So I left and headed towards Calvi, another scenic road, stunning sights again. Until I came across one of the planned dirt tracks, this one across the “Desert des Agriates” to “Plage de Saleccia”, only 8mls each way but it took me about 1hr each way with sightseeing and letting vehicles pass etc, a great track, certainly tested the springs and shocks, a stunning drive and a glorious beach at the end of it. Also a campsite, rustic but looked decent enough.
Back up the track onto the road and zigged-zagged my way into L’lle-Rousse, which took about 20mins to get through, just because of the volume of traffic, it looked a nice enough place though. But with time getting on and no campsite reservation, I pushed on to Calvi, 1st campsite-full, 2nd campsite-poorly laid out and cramped, 3rd campsite-full, 4th campsite-room but cramped and finally 5th campsite, a proper pitch, good facilities, ok it’s 20min walk into Calvi, but only €16 a night. Good enough for early afternoon.
So pitched tent and relaxed after a brilliant day. I’ll walk to Calvi tomorrow (Sunday) what I saw of it today looked stunningly picturesque, whether I go out for a drive about to see other sights, we’ll see, maybe just do Calvi and relax.
So I left and headed towards Calvi, another scenic road, stunning sights again. Until I came across one of the planned dirt tracks, this one across the “Desert des Agriates” to “Plage de Saleccia”, only 8mls each way but it took me about 1hr each way with sightseeing and letting vehicles pass etc, a great track, certainly tested the springs and shocks, a stunning drive and a glorious beach at the end of it. Also a campsite, rustic but looked decent enough.
Back up the track onto the road and zigged-zagged my way into L’lle-Rousse, which took about 20mins to get through, just because of the volume of traffic, it looked a nice enough place though. But with time getting on and no campsite reservation, I pushed on to Calvi, 1st campsite-full, 2nd campsite-poorly laid out and cramped, 3rd campsite-full, 4th campsite-room but cramped and finally 5th campsite, a proper pitch, good facilities, ok it’s 20min walk into Calvi, but only €16 a night. Good enough for early afternoon.
So pitched tent and relaxed after a brilliant day. I’ll walk to Calvi tomorrow (Sunday) what I saw of it today looked stunningly picturesque, whether I go out for a drive about to see other sights, we’ll see, maybe just do Calvi and relax.
11th; Sometimes on a trip, you actually forget you’re on holiday, so after a lazy start, breakfast and a mug of tea, I went off to the beach, stayed for about 3hrs before it got too hot as it’s in the 30’s+C today.
Back for a shower, some lunch, a nap, another shower, a glass or two of Corsican wine, a bit of internet.
Then another shower, dressed up, well shirt and shorts as opposed to T shirt and shorts for a wander around Calvi in the evening. I love Calvi, it’s a beautiful harbour, a fantastic beach and a great small port. Ate in one of the many restaurants overlooking the port, a lovely blue steak and salad and not too bad € wise, €23 all in including soft drink. Took about 30mins to walk back to camp, and just sat with a glass of Corsican wine looking at the stars.
Back for a shower, some lunch, a nap, another shower, a glass or two of Corsican wine, a bit of internet.
Then another shower, dressed up, well shirt and shorts as opposed to T shirt and shorts for a wander around Calvi in the evening. I love Calvi, it’s a beautiful harbour, a fantastic beach and a great small port. Ate in one of the many restaurants overlooking the port, a lovely blue steak and salad and not too bad € wise, €23 all in including soft drink. Took about 30mins to walk back to camp, and just sat with a glass of Corsican wine looking at the stars.
12th; Had to summon up energy today and move on to Porto, so packed away, a shower and a mug of tea and on my way. After jet washing Grunt, drove a few kms from Calvi spotted a lovely dirt track so drove along that for a while, it wasn’t really going anywhere spectacular, mind you maybe with so much of Corsica so stunning, an ordinarily beautiful part gets overlooked.
So hit the road again to Porto, not far but on this stunning road with loads of curves, stunning scenery, little roadside villages etc, it took all morning, a stunningly glorious drive. I see why the Tour de France came along this route!
I read on a forum before I left about an Australian couple who spent a month touring Corsica on their motorbike, and they wondered of all the places in the world they had visited, that Corsica is a place they could live and not get bored with.
Found the campsite, rustic but ok, but like a lot of campsites so far in Corsica only €15-18 a night, bargain, considering peak season etc. In rip off Britain, you’d have to pay that to camp in a cow pat infested field in winter!
So hit the road again to Porto, not far but on this stunning road with loads of curves, stunning scenery, little roadside villages etc, it took all morning, a stunningly glorious drive. I see why the Tour de France came along this route!
I read on a forum before I left about an Australian couple who spent a month touring Corsica on their motorbike, and they wondered of all the places in the world they had visited, that Corsica is a place they could live and not get bored with.
Found the campsite, rustic but ok, but like a lot of campsites so far in Corsica only €15-18 a night, bargain, considering peak season etc. In rip off Britain, you’d have to pay that to camp in a cow pat infested field in winter!
13th; Up early, packed, mug of tea and visited Porto, couldn’t do it yesterday, far too much traffic and tourists. Porto is a nice little place, but it for me doesn’t stand out like Calvi, Centuri of St Florent, though if I spent more time there it would grow on me.
Back to the main road, a bit of shopping, back to camp, paid and left for the mountains. The D84 is a stunning road it runs from Porto to the main N193, though some stunning scenery, pine forests, gorges, over the Col de Vergio and through stunning little villages. Looked at doing a dirt track or two, but couldn’t find one and the other too short, so pushed on to the N193, turned towards Ponte-Leccia and left towards Monte Cinto, another stunning route, this time through Gorges de l’Asco.
Asco itself is yet another pretty mountainside village, there’s a campsite, but I choose to stop at Camping Monte Cinto further up the mountain in a small gorge with a stunning stream running through it and because of the height (altitude, not mine) it was a welcome from the high 30’sC on the coast.
Driving distances haven’t been huge for a number of reasons, expect in laden 110 to average 30/40kms an hour in mountains or west coastal roads (I believe east coast roads are straighter), with so many photo opportunities, so many twists and curves and traffic. Today was only 130kms (approx) but took nearly 4hrs. But in no rush and getting to a campsite early you stand a better chance of getting space, then you can go off and explore or just doss about and take it all in.
Even passed Corsica’s ski area today, this island’s got it all!
A fantastic meal of local pork, salad and vegetables and half carafe of local Monte Cinto wine for only €15, a lovely evening, met a lovely Spanish couple from Barclelona and retired for the night.
Back to the main road, a bit of shopping, back to camp, paid and left for the mountains. The D84 is a stunning road it runs from Porto to the main N193, though some stunning scenery, pine forests, gorges, over the Col de Vergio and through stunning little villages. Looked at doing a dirt track or two, but couldn’t find one and the other too short, so pushed on to the N193, turned towards Ponte-Leccia and left towards Monte Cinto, another stunning route, this time through Gorges de l’Asco.
Asco itself is yet another pretty mountainside village, there’s a campsite, but I choose to stop at Camping Monte Cinto further up the mountain in a small gorge with a stunning stream running through it and because of the height (altitude, not mine) it was a welcome from the high 30’sC on the coast.
Driving distances haven’t been huge for a number of reasons, expect in laden 110 to average 30/40kms an hour in mountains or west coastal roads (I believe east coast roads are straighter), with so many photo opportunities, so many twists and curves and traffic. Today was only 130kms (approx) but took nearly 4hrs. But in no rush and getting to a campsite early you stand a better chance of getting space, then you can go off and explore or just doss about and take it all in.
Even passed Corsica’s ski area today, this island’s got it all!
A fantastic meal of local pork, salad and vegetables and half carafe of local Monte Cinto wine for only €15, a lovely evening, met a lovely Spanish couple from Barclelona and retired for the night.
14th; Up early showered, mug of tea packed away, paid the €11 for camping, real value. Thanked the staff for a lovely meal headed up the road to the top as far as I could, ended up at the top with the wooden chalets, and Gites for the hikers. This whole must be hiker heaven, there ‘s paths and trails everywhere. Sadly all the dirt tracks had been closed and barriers across them. Oh well.
Down the same way up the mountain, back through the forests and gorges, before hitting the main road again I drove up into the hill to see 2 lovely little villages; Moltifao and Castifao, motorhomes were prohibited likes a lot of smaller villages because of narrow roads, then hit the main N197 to Ponte-Leccia, which is a great little town, everything here, really liked wandering around here. Refuelled, and on my to Corte, I wanted to see the old citadel and the old city.
Once again, got my 1st choice camping because I arrived early, about midday, but no problem checking-in, small friendly site and only about 15mins walk from the famed old city. But first, a mug of tea, a swim in the cold river next to the site, a spot of lunch, afternoon nap and waited for the thunderstorm to blow over typing this.
Had a lovely walk around Corte for a couple of hours, an almost Tuscan village, like so much of Corsican villages has a lot of Italian influence, maybe because the Genoese ruled the island for many years.
Another lovely local evening meal, a glass or 3, a spot of talking to locals, reading, another great day. Note to self; check hair before walking around anywhere, after the quick dip in the river, my hair stood up and I looked like jedwood’s dad, no wonder I got some strange looks, mind you nothing usual about that. LOL.
Down the same way up the mountain, back through the forests and gorges, before hitting the main road again I drove up into the hill to see 2 lovely little villages; Moltifao and Castifao, motorhomes were prohibited likes a lot of smaller villages because of narrow roads, then hit the main N197 to Ponte-Leccia, which is a great little town, everything here, really liked wandering around here. Refuelled, and on my to Corte, I wanted to see the old citadel and the old city.
Once again, got my 1st choice camping because I arrived early, about midday, but no problem checking-in, small friendly site and only about 15mins walk from the famed old city. But first, a mug of tea, a swim in the cold river next to the site, a spot of lunch, afternoon nap and waited for the thunderstorm to blow over typing this.
Had a lovely walk around Corte for a couple of hours, an almost Tuscan village, like so much of Corsican villages has a lot of Italian influence, maybe because the Genoese ruled the island for many years.
Another lovely local evening meal, a glass or 3, a spot of talking to locals, reading, another great day. Note to self; check hair before walking around anywhere, after the quick dip in the river, my hair stood up and I looked like jedwood’s dad, no wonder I got some strange looks, mind you nothing usual about that. LOL.
15th; A longish drive today of about 150kms, but through the mountains south, although mostly on main roads, it was going to take 4hrs with stops for pics etc. And what a stunning drive it was as well, so much to see, so many stunning little villages, cols, forests, mountains, bridges etc etc. No dirt tracks today.
2 weeks is not long enough on this beautifully stunning varied Island, which as you know is part of France, I wonder if we could swap it for the Isle of Wight? Mind you, we’ll probably ruin it with rules, regs, people in hi-vis and dump litter everywhere so it looks like the rest of the UK.
Arrived at a lovely camping about 13:30hrs, pitched in hot sunshine, did laundry and went for a swim; no you can’t you’re wearing shorts, these are swimming shorts I protested, sorry no shorts allowed, talk about rules. Possessing no swimming trunks or budgie smugglers, headed off for a shower and the bar.
Then back to Grunt in sit the aforementioned hot sunshine, sipping some rather tasty chilled sauvignon blanc while munching local cheese and typing this.
And watched a stunning sunshine.
2 weeks is not long enough on this beautifully stunning varied Island, which as you know is part of France, I wonder if we could swap it for the Isle of Wight? Mind you, we’ll probably ruin it with rules, regs, people in hi-vis and dump litter everywhere so it looks like the rest of the UK.
Arrived at a lovely camping about 13:30hrs, pitched in hot sunshine, did laundry and went for a swim; no you can’t you’re wearing shorts, these are swimming shorts I protested, sorry no shorts allowed, talk about rules. Possessing no swimming trunks or budgie smugglers, headed off for a shower and the bar.
Then back to Grunt in sit the aforementioned hot sunshine, sipping some rather tasty chilled sauvignon blanc while munching local cheese and typing this.
And watched a stunning sunshine.
16th; A lazy holiday day today, up at 07:30hrs, went to bed late watching a firework display further around the bay and awoke to a glorious view, so thought unlikely to see a better view, so mug of tea, showered and wandered into Propriano. After the building sites, walked into the main centre and pleasantly surprised how nice it was, yes it’s a port and in August full of boats and tourists, but it had a small friendly feel about it, liked it.
After a purchase of a crossiant, a French pastry and a baguette, wandered back to camp, changed and off swimming at the nearby beach, spent a lovely couple of hours. Back for a Braai lunch of pork kebabs, salad and baguette.
More swimming, more relaxing and just enjoying a holiday.
After a purchase of a crossiant, a French pastry and a baguette, wandered back to camp, changed and off swimming at the nearby beach, spent a lovely couple of hours. Back for a Braai lunch of pork kebabs, salad and baguette.
More swimming, more relaxing and just enjoying a holiday.
17th; Reluctant to move on, but with more of Corsica to see, packed away and left for Sartene, one of the famous wine villages and I wasn’t disappointed, took a while to find somewhere to park as it’s market day. Immediately loved the place, typically French, a lovely square with cafes, restaurants and the market in the middle selling all sorts of fresh produce.
Had a good wander around, a cup of coffee and croissant, brought a few bits of food and other items, though traffic was building up and getting very busy, I still liked the place and the vin, stunning, tried a sip or two and brought a bottle.
Off to Bonifacio, after a small dirt track which was crowded and not very exciting, turned off the main road towards Bonifacio, traffic jam as far as I could see and this was about 3kms from the centre, I thought stuff that and headed for a campsite near Porto Vecchio, they had room but didn’t think much of it. So at a loose end, I gave Grunt a good wash and headed into Porto Vecchio, a 2.3m barrier stopped me going into the centre, so headed for the port, which was OK, I’ve seen better, Calvi, Propriano, St Florent to name three.
So carried on out of Porto Vecchio and around the bay, found a nice little campsite even had a little pool, so pitched up early afternoon and planned my next move, into the mountains again.
Over a glass or 3 of local and marvellous red, had a nice steak salad and went up to the bar and spoke to about Corsica, England and of course football, as his team Marseilles were playing and winning on TV. A nice evening, really nice people the Corsicans are, friendly, happy, mind you living here helps.
Had a good wander around, a cup of coffee and croissant, brought a few bits of food and other items, though traffic was building up and getting very busy, I still liked the place and the vin, stunning, tried a sip or two and brought a bottle.
Off to Bonifacio, after a small dirt track which was crowded and not very exciting, turned off the main road towards Bonifacio, traffic jam as far as I could see and this was about 3kms from the centre, I thought stuff that and headed for a campsite near Porto Vecchio, they had room but didn’t think much of it. So at a loose end, I gave Grunt a good wash and headed into Porto Vecchio, a 2.3m barrier stopped me going into the centre, so headed for the port, which was OK, I’ve seen better, Calvi, Propriano, St Florent to name three.
So carried on out of Porto Vecchio and around the bay, found a nice little campsite even had a little pool, so pitched up early afternoon and planned my next move, into the mountains again.
Over a glass or 3 of local and marvellous red, had a nice steak salad and went up to the bar and spoke to about Corsica, England and of course football, as his team Marseilles were playing and winning on TV. A nice evening, really nice people the Corsicans are, friendly, happy, mind you living here helps.
18th; I was going to have a lazy day around the pool, didn’t get up until 07:30, but the sun was blazing into the tent. Then, thought mountains, cooler air and dirt tracks. So up packed, showered and ready to go my 08:15, paid and left and thought must see Bonifacio, less than 30kms away and should be quietier this time of morning.
And it was, even found somewhere to park, had a wander around, some big stinkpots (boats) in, and yes I quite liked what I saw of Bonifacio, though later with 1000’s of people not so sure. Headed out and passed the campsite I would have camped at, seemed a good choice, oh well, onto Zonza.
Back to Porto Vecchio, and into the mountains towards Zonza, another stunning road twisting and turning through another national park of forests, great roads, stunning scenery and views and a massive lake at the top. Just after here was my planned dirt track, turned to go down it and stopped to confirm gps and rights of way etc and got passed by a SUV and fiat car, thought it can’t be that bad then.
And it wasn’t, a stunning 2hrs and a bit all the down the mountain I had just climbed. And although a few dirt tracks spurred off, some of which looked a lot more aggressive, I just followed the track around, along and down through this stunning forest, cliff edges, and stunning panoramic views all around. That to me is great fun, no rush, non-damaging tracks, just love them and Grunt behaved, didn’t even get hot in the cooler air, she even passed the 199k mls barrier as well.
Got back onto the same main coastal road and headed up the coast until I saw a nice looking campsite overlooking a lovely little cove, checked-in, pitched tent, finished my dobie put that out to dry, showered, swam and just enjoyed myself after a great day.
And it was, even found somewhere to park, had a wander around, some big stinkpots (boats) in, and yes I quite liked what I saw of Bonifacio, though later with 1000’s of people not so sure. Headed out and passed the campsite I would have camped at, seemed a good choice, oh well, onto Zonza.
Back to Porto Vecchio, and into the mountains towards Zonza, another stunning road twisting and turning through another national park of forests, great roads, stunning scenery and views and a massive lake at the top. Just after here was my planned dirt track, turned to go down it and stopped to confirm gps and rights of way etc and got passed by a SUV and fiat car, thought it can’t be that bad then.
And it wasn’t, a stunning 2hrs and a bit all the down the mountain I had just climbed. And although a few dirt tracks spurred off, some of which looked a lot more aggressive, I just followed the track around, along and down through this stunning forest, cliff edges, and stunning panoramic views all around. That to me is great fun, no rush, non-damaging tracks, just love them and Grunt behaved, didn’t even get hot in the cooler air, she even passed the 199k mls barrier as well.
Got back onto the same main coastal road and headed up the coast until I saw a nice looking campsite overlooking a lovely little cove, checked-in, pitched tent, finished my dobie put that out to dry, showered, swam and just enjoyed myself after a great day.
19th; Got up in the sunshine, took some pics of the little bay and thought a day in hand anyway, stay here and suffer, not.
A real relaxing enjoyable day, just swimming and sunbathing, a spot of lunch overlooking the bay, talked to some locals and campers. Met an Italian guy in a 110 hardtop who was in his 70’s, the back of the 110 had a bed in it, he travels solo, his family travel in 2 other vehicles and they meet up at various campsites and enjoy the holiday together.
Also met a German family travelling in a Landcruiser with a lifting roof, say they were mugged in a rest area on a Spanish motorway, they stopped overnight in a rest area and were awoken by someone opening one of the locked front doors, they made a noise, the scum got off with a camera, thankfully her two youngest children didn’t wake. Too many reports sadly of this sort of thing, they even use knockout gas nowdays as well.
Another lovely evening, then turned in, totally content.
A real relaxing enjoyable day, just swimming and sunbathing, a spot of lunch overlooking the bay, talked to some locals and campers. Met an Italian guy in a 110 hardtop who was in his 70’s, the back of the 110 had a bed in it, he travels solo, his family travel in 2 other vehicles and they meet up at various campsites and enjoy the holiday together.
Also met a German family travelling in a Landcruiser with a lifting roof, say they were mugged in a rest area on a Spanish motorway, they stopped overnight in a rest area and were awoken by someone opening one of the locked front doors, they made a noise, the scum got off with a camera, thankfully her two youngest children didn’t wake. Too many reports sadly of this sort of thing, they even use knockout gas nowdays as well.
Another lovely evening, then turned in, totally content.
20th; Up early and off into the mountains again, stopped for fuel and some food shopping, just before the heavy rain came. Drove up a glorious twisting road out of the rain towards Zonza, passing 100’s of people, all going canyoning, walking, go-aping etc” and thought canyoning ok, until I actually stopped and saw what they were doing, canyoning looked great fun, with so many gorges, forests, trails, Corsica must be heaven for all sorts of outdoor activities.
And loads of dirt tracks, but none open in the national parks, which is fair enough. But did come across one near the Zonza horse racecourse, checked the map first, then the gps and sure enough it went down one side of a gorge and back up the other. A brilliant diversion, tricky in parts, but mostly ok and some more stunning scenery, absolutely fantastic, after about 2hrs back out on tarmac going through some very small villages, then dirt again before getting back on the main road to Zonza.
Zonza a lovely little place where 3 roads meet and a small roundabout in the middle to calm traffic, no rules here, first come first served even if you do block the exit, one bloke even parked on the exit, blocking the road and then went and got a newspaper. Pushed my may though and parked up and wandered around this lovely little place, tourists everywhere, but still typically French and not spoilt, cafes and shops busy, it was good to see.
After a drink and a spot of lunch, headed out of Zonza and along the backbone if you like of Corsica, another glorious drive all way along and down again to the coast. Found a campsite, pitched tent late afternoon and just relaxed, a long day, but another great one.
No BBQ’s allowed, shame as I’d brought a split chicken, explained mine BBQ was specially built, high off the ground etc etc, she said ok. So a great day capped off with a split chicken on a braai. Perfect.
And loads of dirt tracks, but none open in the national parks, which is fair enough. But did come across one near the Zonza horse racecourse, checked the map first, then the gps and sure enough it went down one side of a gorge and back up the other. A brilliant diversion, tricky in parts, but mostly ok and some more stunning scenery, absolutely fantastic, after about 2hrs back out on tarmac going through some very small villages, then dirt again before getting back on the main road to Zonza.
Zonza a lovely little place where 3 roads meet and a small roundabout in the middle to calm traffic, no rules here, first come first served even if you do block the exit, one bloke even parked on the exit, blocking the road and then went and got a newspaper. Pushed my may though and parked up and wandered around this lovely little place, tourists everywhere, but still typically French and not spoilt, cafes and shops busy, it was good to see.
After a drink and a spot of lunch, headed out of Zonza and along the backbone if you like of Corsica, another glorious drive all way along and down again to the coast. Found a campsite, pitched tent late afternoon and just relaxed, a long day, but another great one.
No BBQ’s allowed, shame as I’d brought a split chicken, explained mine BBQ was specially built, high off the ground etc etc, she said ok. So a great day capped off with a split chicken on a braai. Perfect.
_
21st; I needed to
start heading north a bit today, and I did. But not before coming off the coast
road again and into the mountains, drove up through some stunning gorges, one
of them a rather water fall and a couple of tunnels to drive through and even
more beautiful villages.
Had lunch overlooking the East coast of Corsica, and although there was loads more to see, I knew I couldn’t see all of it, save some sightseeing for next time, hopefully.
Found my planned campsite, excellent position, right on the beach and about 15kms from the ferry, because of this they open the gates early at 06:30 for those who need to catch the 08:00 like me on Friday.
Pitched tent, wandered along the beach and just relaxed and read and until dinner, a hearty not healthy meal, a glass or 2 and turn in.
Had lunch overlooking the East coast of Corsica, and although there was loads more to see, I knew I couldn’t see all of it, save some sightseeing for next time, hopefully.
Found my planned campsite, excellent position, right on the beach and about 15kms from the ferry, because of this they open the gates early at 06:30 for those who need to catch the 08:00 like me on Friday.
Pitched tent, wandered along the beach and just relaxed and read and until dinner, a hearty not healthy meal, a glass or 2 and turn in.
22nd; Last full day in Corsica; up early, packed, washing-up done, dobie done and out to dry, paid for 2 nights camping and on my way into the mountains to see San Michelle church, a lovely little church and a beautiful area. Then headed over a col and joined the Bastia to St Florent road I drove along 2 weeks previous, time goes fast, doesn’t it.
Oh well, back down the mountain on some more narrow roads, another good jetwash for Grunt, fuelled up because I’m not paying Italian prices, currently about 25/30c a ltr more.
Back to camp, pitch tent again, swim, lunch and relax.
Oh well, back down the mountain on some more narrow roads, another good jetwash for Grunt, fuelled up because I’m not paying Italian prices, currently about 25/30c a ltr more.
Back to camp, pitch tent again, swim, lunch and relax.
23rd; Ferry day today, so not wanting to miss the ferry I was awake 2hrs early at 04:00, and drifted in and out of sleep, not wanting to sleep and wake up 10mins before the ferry sails. So up early, packed away, showered, tea, breakfast and a pleasant drive into Bastia to catch the ferry.
Boarded, spent about 7hrs on the ferry and off into Savona, a very easy ferry experience. Landed about 14:00hrs and hit the toll towards San Remo and France, campsite in San Remo full, found another in Ventimiglia, full, so he phoned his brother down the coast in Latte di Ventimiglia and he had space, so got there a bit tired, pitched tent and a and quick walk around.
This whole part of the Italian coast is stunning, first time I’ve driven through Ventimiglia, and it’s a really pretty historic seaside Italian town, lovely streets, buildings, cafes and shops.
A long day, worth it but a long one. No photos of today, sorry, just memories.
Boarded, spent about 7hrs on the ferry and off into Savona, a very easy ferry experience. Landed about 14:00hrs and hit the toll towards San Remo and France, campsite in San Remo full, found another in Ventimiglia, full, so he phoned his brother down the coast in Latte di Ventimiglia and he had space, so got there a bit tired, pitched tent and a and quick walk around.
This whole part of the Italian coast is stunning, first time I’ve driven through Ventimiglia, and it’s a really pretty historic seaside Italian town, lovely streets, buildings, cafes and shops.
A long day, worth it but a long one. No photos of today, sorry, just memories.
24th;
Only 18kms from Monaco and thought why not, then thought no, been once in the Series and as nice as it was I was hoping for better sights today.
Back into Ventimiglia and North to France, up this glorious road again, also glad I refuelled in Corsica, though you do go back into France before the Col du Tende and there is a TOTAL garage to refuel if you need it and it’s nearly always busy as it’s about 30c a ltr cheaper.
Up and up towards the col in beautiful sunshine finally, 3rd time lucky, the Col du Tende over 40 switchbacks in a short but steep climb and on top, old forts; what can I say, being of limited vocabulary and not being a writer, I’ll let the photos speak, though they don't do it justice.
After a couple of hrs, headed into Italy again and then towards Embrun, France, where I found a great little campsite, pitched and just relaxed to take it all in. Then the thunder and lightning started back over the mountains I just came from, that was lucky, then it started to rain, monsoon rain and rain and rain, lucky there’s a great little bar and restaurant onsite, so I sat in that chatting to other campers. After a lot of rain the skies ran dry and cleared just in time for bed, oh well.
Only 18kms from Monaco and thought why not, then thought no, been once in the Series and as nice as it was I was hoping for better sights today.
Back into Ventimiglia and North to France, up this glorious road again, also glad I refuelled in Corsica, though you do go back into France before the Col du Tende and there is a TOTAL garage to refuel if you need it and it’s nearly always busy as it’s about 30c a ltr cheaper.
Up and up towards the col in beautiful sunshine finally, 3rd time lucky, the Col du Tende over 40 switchbacks in a short but steep climb and on top, old forts; what can I say, being of limited vocabulary and not being a writer, I’ll let the photos speak, though they don't do it justice.
After a couple of hrs, headed into Italy again and then towards Embrun, France, where I found a great little campsite, pitched and just relaxed to take it all in. Then the thunder and lightning started back over the mountains I just came from, that was lucky, then it started to rain, monsoon rain and rain and rain, lucky there’s a great little bar and restaurant onsite, so I sat in that chatting to other campers. After a lot of rain the skies ran dry and cleared just in time for bed, oh well.
25th; The stop today was due to be in Beaune, not far, but no toll roads it would be long enough, but after spending nearly 2hrs to do 100kms and as lovely as this part of France is, with mountains, lakes, pretty villages etc I still had over 300kms to go.
So hopped on a toll road to get through Grenoble and out of the alps, a quick info check and found tolls weren’t until the other side of Lyon, so skirted Lyon and got off onto the N roads again, about 180kms made in no time and only €20, not too bad.
Joined the N road north to Macon and then onto Beaune where I arrived mid afternoon, a longish day, glad of the tolls road for that stint, seeing I left at 07:30, it would have been even longer. WHY? Did I not camp in Beaune before, normally have gone past and camped at Macon 50kms further South, the campsite at Beaune is outstanding, a municipal one, 15mins walk from the stunning and I mean stunning town that is Beaune, historic, pretty and winos heaven. And only €10.45 a night, a tenner, the French get it right again. Excellent facilities, including good size pitches, restaurant, free wi-fi, info on Beaune including free town street plans etc, absolutely fantastic. Also has an excellent restaurant onsite.
So a spot of lunch, a quick dose, showered and into town, another place I could live, after a while wandered back and relaxed in the overcast evening, even put a jumper on, outrageous!
So hopped on a toll road to get through Grenoble and out of the alps, a quick info check and found tolls weren’t until the other side of Lyon, so skirted Lyon and got off onto the N roads again, about 180kms made in no time and only €20, not too bad.
Joined the N road north to Macon and then onto Beaune where I arrived mid afternoon, a longish day, glad of the tolls road for that stint, seeing I left at 07:30, it would have been even longer. WHY? Did I not camp in Beaune before, normally have gone past and camped at Macon 50kms further South, the campsite at Beaune is outstanding, a municipal one, 15mins walk from the stunning and I mean stunning town that is Beaune, historic, pretty and winos heaven. And only €10.45 a night, a tenner, the French get it right again. Excellent facilities, including good size pitches, restaurant, free wi-fi, info on Beaune including free town street plans etc, absolutely fantastic. Also has an excellent restaurant onsite.
So a spot of lunch, a quick dose, showered and into town, another place I could live, after a while wandered back and relaxed in the overcast evening, even put a jumper on, outrageous!
26th; After another late night, chatting, wining and dining, got up late after being awoken by people next door packing away their caravan, awning, sides of awning and various other pieces of equipment. So got up, packed the tent away, quick shower, mug of tea and my way to Sezanne, leaving them still packing.
No hurry today, so no toll roads, I could make my next stop in Albert, but Sezanne is half way and I have time and Sezanne seemed a nice place to stop. After a bit of shopping, hit the great French national roads, a good decent and litter free drive that makes driving a pleasure in France, through some lovely villages, I stopped in one for a coffee and croissant.
After a long enough drive in the rain, arrived in an overcast Sezanne early afternoon, drove through the centre to see what’s it all about and yes nice, historic, scenic but I didn’t warm to it, maybe the weather didn’t help, I don’t know.
Found the municipal campsite about 2kms from the centre, paid the €6.30 (Six) for the night, pitched up, had split chicken on the braai, fresh bread and a glass of local wine which I brought in Beaune, which was rather nice, then rain started again and lasted until early evening, oh well. Passed the evening, reading, typing travelog, washing up etc before climbing ladder and snuggling up in my roof tent, warm as toast.
No hurry today, so no toll roads, I could make my next stop in Albert, but Sezanne is half way and I have time and Sezanne seemed a nice place to stop. After a bit of shopping, hit the great French national roads, a good decent and litter free drive that makes driving a pleasure in France, through some lovely villages, I stopped in one for a coffee and croissant.
After a long enough drive in the rain, arrived in an overcast Sezanne early afternoon, drove through the centre to see what’s it all about and yes nice, historic, scenic but I didn’t warm to it, maybe the weather didn’t help, I don’t know.
Found the municipal campsite about 2kms from the centre, paid the €6.30 (Six) for the night, pitched up, had split chicken on the braai, fresh bread and a glass of local wine which I brought in Beaune, which was rather nice, then rain started again and lasted until early evening, oh well. Passed the evening, reading, typing travelog, washing up etc before climbing ladder and snuggling up in my roof tent, warm as toast.
27th; Up early and raring to go, packed away, mug of tea and sorted myself out, and on the way by 08:00, only about 240kms today, but all scenic back roads through various stunning and bland villages and towns before coming across the Chateau de Pierrefonds in Pierrefonds, and thought that’s got to be worth a stop.
So parked up and had a good wander around the Chateau, really interesting, they were restoring it and not all the rooms were open, as I was wandering about looking relatively impressed the young guide who helpfully pointed things out when I entered the Chateau, was also there in the banquet hall, a polite Bonjour and a nod. He said said would you like to see one of the bedrooms, it’s not officially open but we’ve just finished renovating it, yes please.
So though a little door, behind a cordoned off area, through a locked door, he had a key, down a passage way, though another locked door and into a glorious massive bedroom, beautifully colourful and he explained about the room further including the murals on the wall, fascinating. Thanked him so much, and off we wandered back to the main part of the Chateau, he also helped explain the history behind the banquet room, again really enjoyed his knowledge and time. Thanked him again and left.
Made Albert early afternoon, visited Theipval, and Queens Cemetery where my 2 Great Uncles are buried and remembered, after a while drove the campsite in Albert, a nice little campsite only about 2kms from the centre, pitched up in the hazy sunshine, had lunch and relaxed.
Had a nice wander around Albert in the evening, stopped at a café and just enjoyed watching the world go by. Got back and just relaxed in the lazy sunshine with a glass and my thoughts.
So parked up and had a good wander around the Chateau, really interesting, they were restoring it and not all the rooms were open, as I was wandering about looking relatively impressed the young guide who helpfully pointed things out when I entered the Chateau, was also there in the banquet hall, a polite Bonjour and a nod. He said said would you like to see one of the bedrooms, it’s not officially open but we’ve just finished renovating it, yes please.
So though a little door, behind a cordoned off area, through a locked door, he had a key, down a passage way, though another locked door and into a glorious massive bedroom, beautifully colourful and he explained about the room further including the murals on the wall, fascinating. Thanked him so much, and off we wandered back to the main part of the Chateau, he also helped explain the history behind the banquet room, again really enjoyed his knowledge and time. Thanked him again and left.
Made Albert early afternoon, visited Theipval, and Queens Cemetery where my 2 Great Uncles are buried and remembered, after a while drove the campsite in Albert, a nice little campsite only about 2kms from the centre, pitched up in the hazy sunshine, had lunch and relaxed.
Had a nice wander around Albert in the evening, stopped at a café and just enjoyed watching the world go by. Got back and just relaxed in the lazy sunshine with a glass and my thoughts.
28th; Last full day on holiday, up early and eager to go, lovely French roads through Albert towards Amiens, hit fog and having seen Amiens, hit toll road around the lovely city, cost 90c and saved about 20mins, back on glorious N roads again, as most have a 90km limit I can cruise just as fast in Grunt as on the toll roads anyway.
Back into Sunshine around Rouen an on toll road again, this time €1.60, stayed on for a while to get clear of Rouen, cost another €4.00, hit N roads again through the towns and villages. I wanted to take different route towards Honfleur this time, while I’d planned a route to avoid tolls, I didn’t avoid ferries, so there I was suddenly at a little ferry to cross the Seine, how did I get here?!
Anyway hopped onto the small ferry, which takes about 30/40 cars, free and takes about 15mins from side to side, and got off the other side in a rather small but pleasant enough village and carried on my way, pulling into Honfleur about 20mins later and at the campsite at 12:05, 5 mins after the reception had closed and wasn’t open until 14:30, marvellous!?
So wandered into Honfleur and a light lunch and enjoyed the sunshine and scenery. Wandered back again to enjoy an evening meal overlooking Honfleur and the yachts, a lovely atmosphere, then wandered back after some shopping and had a glass to celebrate another great trip.
Back into Sunshine around Rouen an on toll road again, this time €1.60, stayed on for a while to get clear of Rouen, cost another €4.00, hit N roads again through the towns and villages. I wanted to take different route towards Honfleur this time, while I’d planned a route to avoid tolls, I didn’t avoid ferries, so there I was suddenly at a little ferry to cross the Seine, how did I get here?!
Anyway hopped onto the small ferry, which takes about 30/40 cars, free and takes about 15mins from side to side, and got off the other side in a rather small but pleasant enough village and carried on my way, pulling into Honfleur about 20mins later and at the campsite at 12:05, 5 mins after the reception had closed and wasn’t open until 14:30, marvellous!?
So wandered into Honfleur and a light lunch and enjoyed the sunshine and scenery. Wandered back again to enjoy an evening meal overlooking Honfleur and the yachts, a lovely atmosphere, then wandered back after some shopping and had a glass to celebrate another great trip.
29th; A lazy start, ferry not until 17:00hrs and only 25km to travel, so just took my time, left the campsite and headed into Honfleur, did some shopping, put some fuel in and headed for Le Havre, over the Normandy bridges, €6.10 toll and on into Le Havre and the docks. Far too early, but allows time to have lunch and enjoy the last day before joining the queue to get on the ferry.
Ferry left on time and docked in Portsmouth at 21:30, home at 22:00. 2,718mls
Ferry left on time and docked in Portsmouth at 21:30, home at 22:00. 2,718mls